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red sea wrecks - march 2010 |
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| i
hate checking in for flights as an underwater photographer. i
don't know why i worry so much about it, but it's the only part of a
holiday i worry about now. fortunately, i've developed a plan for
minimising stress about carry ons and weight limits etc, which worked
flawlessly as we entered the check in arena. booking parking early
meant i got the same rate for short stay as long stay, so when i checked
in, my (rather heavy) hand luggage with housing & strobes stayed in the
car. weight limits met :-) happy robin :-)
the flight was the usual challenge in leg room, but on
arrival we discovered we were the only tornado guys on the flight... so
a private taxi cab to the marina, and a speedy boarding (even missed the
'pointless' second baggage scan) left us on board the lovely whirlwind
in virtually no time at all. a few of the crew recognised me and
after reconstructing my dive kit and camera set up, we relaxed, logged
in with chris & chrissie our guides for the week, and then grabbed an
early night. the wind had been up over the previous few days and
so captain mohammed did some delicate negotiating over tea with the
coastguard and we managed to get out of the harbour first thing...
something it turns out which no other day boat achieved - go captain! |
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first dive is usually on the alternatives, but as we
wanted to get moving across to abu nuhas/gobal island we rolled over to
beacon rock and did a shakeout on the dunraven, with a nice roll
back over the reef. the usual weighting shenanigans ensued (and
the fact my inflator hose was not fully attached!) made for an
interesting start, but soon enough ness was enjoying her first red sea
dive and i was learning to handle the extra buoyancy arms i'd
purchased...
we then proceeded to "bounce" over the gobal island.
ness and i decided to miss the joys of the ulysses (and the long
rib journey out!) and do a nice bimble around the barge (if you've not
done it - fish galore) to get some macro shots. we then doubled up
again there with a night dive - thumper enjoying herself with her very
bright video lights (almost didn't need the strobes!) as we rolled
around avoiding other divers as well as the usual hunting lionfish. |
| day 2 heralded
the rosalie moller. having usually been ill or been too
bouncy, i'd never had the chance to descend onto the rosie so i was
looking forward to the big wreck. i can see what all the fuss is
about as we enjoyed 3 great dives, one around the stern, one a quick
whizz down to the bow and back, and then a macro tour (gotta love those
flabellina's) making sure we didn't rack up the deco (35m to the deck is
a looooong way for us recreational types). no night dive (three
30m plus dives is more than enough for a day!) meant a relaxing night
and the joys of a mike ward presentation (fun, educational and
informative)... although a doze after dive 3 meant we missed the chance
to visit gobal island via rib |
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day 3 lead us down to the wreck magnet that is abu nuhas
reef. the 4 wrecks scattered across the reef gave us even more
metal to peruse and we all enjoyed dives on the giannis d - not
as fun as i remember, and i still didn't get that signature shot: crappy
morning viz (still better than vobster on a good day though),
chrisoula k - very photogenic and good for some light penetration
(we avoided the busy engine room - which is quite a way in), and the
highlight for both of us, the carnatic - where we had almost flat
water, fantastic sun light, and lots of great picture opportunities -
ness proving to be a fabulous model! mike took
the opportunity to get his shallow and small sonar kit out to play with
the wrecks due to the smooth water and was having lots of fun until a
sharp edge on the giannis d detached the sonar from the boat. a quick
scramble recovered the reasonably expensive piece of kit, and mike earnt
the name "sonar wrecker" for his troubles. |
| we awoke on day
4 and despite trying to get everyone to go back the carnatic (it
was bouncy and the kimon m was just too far by rib), the vote was
for a 2nd dive on the giannis d. i decided to dive naked
(i.e. no camera!) and we had a nice relaxed bimble and did some
exploration in some of the nooks & crannies. we then packed up our
bags and headed back to the sinai side of the red sea and check out the
thistlegorm. having never been in the red
sea before, ness had never experienced the thistlegorm and
therefore thoroughly enjoyed the penetration, guns, fishlife, and
general back story of a most superb wreck. we did an afternoon
dive, a night dive (ness relaxed and i did a nice macro shoot with mike
and a perfect morning dive (we were the only boat mored overnight!)
heading around the stern and those lovely guns. it was fantastic
fun and i left the wreck thinking next time, must do it on twins! |
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we then headed south to shag rock and the kingston.
i'm not a huge fan of this wreck and after not taking my dive computer
with me (doh!) spent a reasonable dive (don't get me wrong, it was much
better then zero viz in weymouth!) on the wreck and then drifting over
the lovely reef. this was followed by a quick
steam back to beacon rock and the dunraven. somehow the
photography clicked at this point and i felt i got some of the best
underwater pix i'd ever taken as we swam through the length of the wreck
and then back along the reef.
whilst mored at beacon rock, we proceeded to dive a
recent liveaboard (fraser) which had gone down 3 months ago. it
was a strange experience, diving a new wreck (almost like visiting an
inland site!) and a bit disheartening due to the fact that it had almost
been gutted after only 3 months. we then rolled up to the shallows
and had some anemone fish fun (with a mirror fragment from the wreck).
this was followed by a night dive on the same reef with hunting lionfish
and a couple of very beautiful squid. |
| the last day
beckoned with no metal for the wreck hunters (mike was worried he'd be
suffering withdrawl symptoms) but 3 dives on the great reefs of ras
mohammed didn't hurt too much. shark & jolanda was as good as
usual (missed the bohar snapper i'd seen in the summer though), but
jackfish alley was superb with fantastic lighting in the caves and
minimal other divers in the water leading to a superb photo dive.
we even found an amazing coral outcrop which had a shoal of glassfish
attached and we spent ages having fun snapping away. |
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the last dive on raz ghozlani was a very relaxed affair
and brought to the end a fantastic weeks diving. kit dried, feet
up for the evening and then the usual sharm transfer (not a great fan of
sharm, but i recommend a mcdonalds chocolate milkshake when you get back
as a very nice way to ease down) before heading to the airport, more
baggage worries (at the front of the line so didn't get any hassle at
all!) and a slight delay saw us arrive back in gatwick (i'm sure they
made the legroom smaller on the return flight) at about 11pm. |
| a fantastic trip
and a first for ness and i together (we had fun and didn't threaten to
kill each other ever - bar the one time on a dive where ness threatened
to stick my camera somewhere that i'd need a very wide aperture to get
enough light!). many thanks to the ever attentive guys on the
boat, mike 'sonar wrecker' ward for his fun and informative talks and
background on the wrecks, thumper and ross (5th time on whirlwind!),
chrissie & chris who were the perfect guides (there when you needed
them, gone when you don't) and peter & the newsea group who despite
initial worries about a group of 12 crazy welsh divers, prooved to be
fantastic entertainment and great boat buddies.
... now when can i go back and get that pic of the giannis d i keep
missing......? |
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